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Remote as it was, it was still too cosmopolitan for seventh-century bishop Cuthbert, who retreated to the nearby Farne Islands – now populated only by puffins and National Trust rangers – in order to find true solitude.

The best-known relic of Lindisfarne is the Lindisfarne Gospels, the most ornate of all Anglo-Saxon books, which was apparently written at the monastery before being taken to Durham and ending up in the British Library.

The site, founded some time before 700, was a natural unloading place for ships coming from the Solent and heading up the River Itchen, and it was apparently built to a strict design with every house assigned its own plot and the streets laid with gravel.

Remarkably, parts of the Saxon churches in both places survive to this day – Wearmouth boasts surreal carved beasts in its tower, while Jarrow’s church contains some fragments of seventh-century stained glass, which would have adorned the building back when Bede worshipped there several times a day.

But while the fabric of the churches recaptures their splendid past, the setting does not.

It is nearly 13 centuries since the English nation first appeared in the historical record thanks to the Venerable Bede, the monk who chronicled how the Anglo-Saxons moved to Britain and became Christian.

Henrietta Leyser, a historian at the University of Oxford, has written Beda: A Journey Through the Seven Kingdoms in the Age of Bede as a practical guide to the medieval world – highlighting the eighth-century monuments which have clung on to survival all this been the centre of Christianity in England since 597, when St Augustine landed there on a mission from the Pope to convert the Anglo-Saxons, and it remains the home of the country’s most senior bishop.

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